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Monday
Aug162010
DateMonday, August 16, 2010 at 12:00PM

Vino in Vallecito

By Linda J. Bottjer

Irish Vineyards in Vallecito (Irish Vineyards)The search for golden riches brought miners to Calaveras County back in the mid nineteenth century. Some meander around still hoping to strike it big by finding the malleable mineral. Oenophiles know the on-going wealth is now discovered at area wineries.

The town of Vallecito is our focus where the Irish family, and their same named vineyard, believe wine, family and a renegade spirit are the essential ingredients to the good life.

As the award winning vintner Russell Irish started making wine before he was actually old enough to drink it.  Years later both estate grown grapes and those grown to Irish’s specifications create mouth welcoming joys. 
 
Their Petite Sirah melds the dulcet duo of dark cherry with the vanilla laden toast of French oak.  Well balanced in acid and with a soft on the tongue savoriness it serves to heighten a variety of rich entrees and grilled meats. The zestier Barbera also supports any depth of char upon beef or lamb.

The Petite Sirah is also a major component of the Kilkenny Red along with an equal portion of Zinfandel and a bit of a medicinal flavoring from the Cabernet Sauvignon.  Pinot Grigio, Chenin Blanc and Viognier are the trio of juices that brightly dance upon the tongue as the Kilkenny White.

Malbec, the deep black-berried Touriga and a robust Graciano show off Irish’s appreciation of Portuguese and Spanish varietals.  A dusky Tempranillo complete with leathery tones is a highlight of the winery’s De Ireys (old style spelling of Irish) series of wines.

While the respect for wine is great the air of pomposity is not. “Pog Mo Thoin”, a red blend, translates from the Gaelic into an action that requires a derriere and a pursing of lips.  It is the response to those who sometimes forget the humble origins of wine and add an air of elitism to the pleasure of drinking it.

The “Twisted Oak” of Twisted Oak WInery in Vallecito. (Twisted Oak Winery)A few minutes away is Twisted Oak Winery where owners Jeff and Mary Stai, and winemaker Scott Klann show the enjoyment of wine is far from being the sole domain of snobs. Their logo might look demure – but that is where the illusion ends.

A sense of absurd fun is immediate as one enters their “Rubber Chicken National Forest” enroute the twisting road that climbs to where the winery and one of the tasting rooms reside.  Their other tasting room is in downtown Murphys.

Upon reaching either of their tasting rooms, there is no doubt for those with a penchant for the bold flavors of Rhône or Iberian styled wines that Nirvana resides in Calaveras County. 

The tannins of the ‘06 Tanner Vineyard Syrah are palpable as are the sweet- berried notes up against spicy spikes of clove while the dry finish lingers to a satisfying conclusion.

Mostly made of Mourverdre the Calaveras County River of Skulls’ coloring is almost as dark as its name.  Honoring the Spanish translation for Calaveras, its tastes are complex.  Deep dense sinker drops of tobacco and smoky oak are aerated, only slightly, with a tart sweetness of raspberries and fresh cherries.

For those who prefer a lighter sip, stone fruit flavorings of peaches and apricots combine with the crisp tartness of green apples in the Verdelho. Although aged six months in American stainless steel the taste is that of a French-countryside summer made even more resplendent by capturing a heady lilac aroma.

Another Rhône delectable features a red blend of Mourvedre, Syrah, and Grenache.  The effect often stuns tasters into rants of rapturous expletives.

When it comes to Iberians, either a day, or a night spent with any vintage of the winery’s The Spaniard guarantees one has discovered the elixer to a life well lived. All estate grown, it is the best of earthy blends from their peppery Tempranillo lightened with the slightest of citrus zestiness and deepened with a flash of cedar and lush and large fruitiness from Graciano and Garnacha.

Vallecito wineries provide a fluid celebration to the joys of visiting Calaveras County.

Irish Vineyards is located at 2849 Highway 4 in Vallecito. For more information call (209) 736-1299 or visit www.irishvineyards.com. Twisted Oak Winery is located at 4280 Red Hill Road at Hwy 4 in Vallecito. For more information call (209) 736-9080 or visit their website at www.twistedoak.com.


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